Serving Up a Life Post-COVID-19

Five years ago, three local business owners were on the edge of new dreams when COVID-19 started pushing its way across the country. Washington, then Illinois, and California. First, it was the email from schools, then offices moved to “work from home,” - but it was when a multi-billion-dollar sports juggernaut preemptively agreed to a $300 million loss that soon-to-be Mae’s owner and executive chef Josh Taggert got worried. 

“It’s for real. They are shutting everything down,” he said. He knew just as soon as the NBA made their March 2020 announcement, but by then, days before the planned opening of his new farm-to-table venture, it was too late. As everything else was halting, Josh and Mae’s hurtled forward. 

“There was nothing I could do. I’m in the heart of it,” he said.

Each year, roughly 10,000 restaurants will open across the country. Of those, 83 percent will survive their first year; half will make it to year five under typical business conditions. March of 2020 was anything but typical.

In February 2020, seven new restaurants prepared to open in the Borough. Three would delay their plans. Four would leap. In honor of the fifth anniversary of the day the world stopped, I checked in with the owners of three of these businesses to see exactly how they survived those chaotic first years and how things stand today.

A Brave New Work

Scoops and Smiles owner Akain Rowland and his brother Yusef had no intention of opening a second location. They had their Malvern shop and it was doing just fine. 

“It was the world’s craziest thing,” Akain said. “I was approached by the owners [of the West Chester storefront] in December.” Initially, they were reluctant, but January came around, and he and Yusef decided to at least look. The town and space won them over. “This is the blueprint of what we love,” said Akain. In February, they decided to go for it. They signed a lease, had the inside repainted, and prepared to open their second ice cream shop. “March 7, I got my [opening health] inspection,” he said. The plan was to open on Mar. 21, the first day of Spring. On March 14, everything shut down.

Governments introduced social distancing protocols and mask mandates. They deemed some workers “essential,” others, “non.” Shop owners broke out the masking tape and measured out six-foot demarcations on their floors. Sit-down restaurants pivoted to offer takeout options. Happy hours moved to Zoom. Cocktails moved to “to go.” Gay Street closed to traffic. Yet, in the middle of it all, three downtown restaurants were working tirelessly to promote their new businesses.  

Forging Ahead

The hardest part for Scoops and Smiles and La Tartine, a Mediterranean restaurant that opened spring on W. Gay St., would be getting the word out about their endeavors. 

“When we opened, no one heard about us yet, and during that time there was much less foot traffic as West Chester is known for,” La Tartine’s owners shared. “Even with delivery service available, it was challenging to get things moving along.”

Scoops and Smiles' strength in Malvern came in part from endearing themselves to the community. They went to the schools. They showed up at events with ice cream, meeting and greeting. Introducing themselves as not only business owners but the people in your neighborhood was key to their business strategy.  

“One of the bigger things in the smaller towns is introducing yourself to the community,” said Akain. “You couldn’t do that. You had to go with the flow of things. Introductions with the pandemic were hard,” he said. 

For Mae’s, the biggest hurdles would be bureaucratic. Despite a kitchen ready to go it took two months for Josh to get his opening inspection due to Chester County Health Department closures.  

“Honestly, not opening right away [would be the hardest part],” he said. 

Staying Alive

As for early survival, they all cite some combination of adaptation, community support, fortuitous action, and faith.  

Mae’s “Grab and Go” fridges were installed to stock easy lunch options for local office workers. With workers now at home, they became the perfect place to house the restaurant's homemade family-style soups and sauces. “I couldn’t keep up on soup,” said Josh. 

That ice cream window at Scoops, which would become a lockdown savior, was not put in by Akain and his brother. “The coffee shop had put it in and never even got to use it. It was a freak of nature blessing,” said Akain.

The Gay St. closure was also huge. So was the West Chester community. 

“Getting to know people in the community and their families has been such a reward,” said La Tartine. “We are sincerely grateful to all our wonderful customers for their referrals and steadfast loyalty. It has helped sustain us through the past five years.” 

In some ways, those pandemic times feel so long ago. However, the vibrations that shook the world as a result are still working their way through society. Shutdowns begat staffing shortages and pay increases. Supply chain disruptions and stimulus payouts led to shortages, then inflation and still high food prices. 

“I can’t believe today is the five-year anniversary,” said Josh. “I can’t believe I’m still here.” 

The Secret to Succeeding

These aren’t really success stories - at least not success in the sense that the struggles are past tense. These are “succeeding” stories. These are get-up-to-fight-another-day stories. 

“Last year, I almost shut down,” said Josh. “Pandemic to crazy inflation. You couldn’t get your bearings. Trying to get out of that hole when everything is going up. It has been really hard,” he said. 

He didn’t, and he has a new plan to finally move beyond it all. Earlier this year, they remodeled the inside of Mae’s, adding a small bar area. This summer, they will introduce a new partnership with Boardroom Spirits, an all-natural distillery out of Landsale. 

“Our focus will be more cocktail-oriented,” said Josh, but Boardroom’s extensive line will give them lots of options. Mae’s will also be premiering a new menu and moving to dinner service seven nights a week.  

“My goal is to make it a little fancier - I just want to elevate the food a little more. Elevate the service a little,” said Josh, who has a background in fine dining. Just a little. “It’s still going to be Mae’s,” he added.  “Nice and cozy and friendly. The goal is to keep people coming back.” 

Then once that’s settled and the cocktails help cushion the margins a little, Josh is raring to do it all again. “I am mad: I am not already on my second [restaurant],” he said.  

As for Akain, he plans to push on through as well.

“It’s a rollercoaster. You just kind of have to stick to your guns. Stick to what you love to do, and what you are known for. You have to ride that low. You keep chugging, or as I say, just keep scooping,” he said. 

At La Tartine, they are keeping the faith. 

“As for what got us through - without question, it would be our faith. Our faith and trust in God carried us and still does! And a big shout-out to St. Joseph, [patron Saint of workers],” they said. 

As for those early pandemic days, Akain reminds us they weren’t all bad.   

“As tough as it was in business, it was one of the best moments when the world slowed down,” said Akain. “How important an ice cream shop became. [A chance at normalcy] ‘Remember when we sat out on Gay St and had ice cream?’ We’ll always be a part of that.”